Tuesday, July 2, 2019

A 1960s Recipe in 2019

One of my distant cousins, who is very invested in genealogy, is putting together a family cookbook and asked relatives for recipes from our parents and grandparents. I was happy to help and sent in my grandmother's sugar cookie recipe, which lists the ingredients followed by the direction "Roll thin and bake." I also sent my mother's recipe for Norwegian meatballs (yes, it is different than Swedish!) and my aunt's gingerbread boys.

My cousin politely asked if we had any more, particularly from my mother, so I enlisted my brother and sister to help. We came up with a jello mold, a meatloaf, Special K bars, and what we always called "pudding cake," among others. I recently heard from my cousin again, as he is putting the book together. He didn't understand the directions for the pudding cake, and when I looked at it again, I could see why. Here is the recipe (Don't try this at home!):


Chocolate Pudding Cake
Ingredients:
· 1/2 cup brown sugar
· 1/4 cup cocoa
· 1 cup warm water
· 1 cup miniature marshmallows
· 1/2 devil's food cake mix
Directions:
· Mix sugar and cocoa in square cake pan
· Stir in warm water.
· Scatter marshmallows over batter.
· Make cake according to package directions and spoon over mixture in pan.
· Bake 350 degrees for 35 minutes or more


My cousin had several questions about the cake mix, including what is the measurement? One-half box? One-half something else? Once we determined it is 1/2 of the boxed cake mix, he asked if that meant you needed to add 1/2 of the ingredients that the cake mix called for -- the water, oil and egg?

Since I had never actually made this, I referred it back to my sister, who decided to make the recipe and find out. She had made the recipe in the past, but had not made it in quite a long time. She used precisely 1/2 of the cake mix and half of all the ingredients listed on the cake box. This is her review:

"Okay, it's out of the oven and mostly cool. This is not the favorite dessert I remember from our childhood. Not sure what happened, but it's disappointing. 

I made the cake with exactly half of the mix (weighed it to be sure), and half of all the things the mix asked for: a half cup of water, 1/6 cup of oil, and 1 1/2 eggs. I used exactly the ingredients the recipe asked for, but generic brands in some cases. I bought a Duncan Hines Devil's Food mix, used generic marshmallows, cocoa, brown sugar.

Result: the cake came out like cake, but the pudding part is runny. Nothing tastes really chocolatey-rich the way I remembered. It tastes like cocoa. The marshmallows come through. I waited until it cooled to almost room temp before trying. It's quite drippy. I can't imagine how runny it would be if I had cut it when it was quite warm-- which is the way you're supposed to be able to serve it! I don't think I can blame the cake mix, though cake mixes today are different from the cake mixes of the sixties."

The following day she described the cake as "a soggy mess." She also researched a bit and found that cake mixes have changed since the 1960, becoming several ounces lighter. Here is the article if you are now fascinated: https://www.nola.com/entertainment_life/eat-drink/article_10fda124-58d8-5238-88b3-a4cd3e925d81.html. And here is a history of cake mixes: https://www.bonappetit.com/entertaining-style/pop-culture/article/cake-mix-history

It is striking how many of my mother's recipes rely on packaged mixes. The Norwegian meatballs, which I always loved, include dry soup mix. I'm sure the Norwegians of the past did not use a soup mix. Jello molds, which are now mocked, were a big part of my childhood. (We never had the bizarre jello molds with mayonnaise and vegetables, though!) My grandmothers' recipes were generally natural ingredients, and I cook with whole foods now. 

So I am asking my cousin to drop that recipe from the family cookbook. My siblings and I remember the original fondly, and maybe that's for the best.

5 comments:

  1. Those two articles about cake mix history are fascinating. If you wanted to recreate your childhood cake, you'd have to figure how much additional ingredients you'd need if you used 9.125 oz of today's cake mix (half of the old amount of full cake mix). Or if you're not averse to alcohol, there's this rum cake (contemporary cake mix, pudding mix) a friend introduced me to:
    Rum Cake
    Bundt pan. Spray with Pam or a little oil. Sprinkle toasted almonds or poppy seeds.
    Heat oven to 350.
    Mix Yellow cake mix, vanilla pudding mix, 3 eggs, ½ cup each water, vegetable oil and dark rum.
    Bake 40 minutes or so.
    Let it sit. Loosen around the edges and middle. Turn on to a big plate. Punch lots of holes with a big fork.
    Topping. 1 cup sugar, ½ cup butter, ¼ cup water. Boil 8-10 minutes until a good syrup. Turn off heat and add ½ cup dark rum. Drizzle it over the cake.

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    1. This sounds delicious! Thank you! I actually did find a from-scratch cake that is very similar to the pudding cake of my childhood. It's in a Mollie Katzen cookbook, Still Life with Menu. I can't put that in my family's cookbook, of course!

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  2. Sometimes it's best to just let the memories marinate in our hearts. My mom made homemade chocolate pudding that I've never made, but oh the memories it conjures up when I think of it.

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  3. Yes, I agree, sometimes trying to recreate the specialness of foods from childhood leads to disillusion. The memories are often better left alone.

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  4. From the description of the results, it sounds as though the correct interpretation of the ½ cake mix might be "Simply add half of the mix envelope's contents; ignore all the box instructions". I suspect everyone in the new millennium was overthinking it.

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